Westworld Alberta
Issue link: http://westworldmagazine.ama.ab.ca/i/68789
lodge – which, of course, entails donning that helmet and life jacket again – I meet with Emilio Zúñiga. The co-owner of a three-leaf (and, rather impressively, carbon neutral) tour agency and travel outfi tter based in San José, he will drive me to my next lodge. Zúñiga has worked hard to create an environ- mentally sustainable business. "Eco-tourism in this country is the result of three big events," he tells me. "The Nobel Peace Prize, the volcano and the World Cup." As we descend into a verdant valley, Zúñiga relays the story of how, in 1948, rebels led by José Figueres overthrew the reigning political dictatorship. Figueres amended the constitution, abolished the military and set the country on an uncertain but resolutely peaceful future. He paved the way for Presi- dent Óscar Arias, who in 1987 brokered a peace deal to end the civil wars raging in Cen- tral America, earning himself a Nobel Prize. Then came the 1990 World Cup. Costa Rica didn't host, mind you – it simply com- peted. But this sparked a national pride that in turn fuelled a desire to protect the whole country, environmentally and socially. "The most important thing that kick-started eco- tourism, though, was the volcano," Zúñiga continues, explaining that Costa Rica literally exploded onto the tourist map in the 1990s when long-dormant Arenal became one of the most active volcanoes on the planet. Rustic lodges replaced cattle ranches and Arenal, where we're headed now, became a hot spot (excuse the pun) for volcanologists and outdoorsy types. It's dark by the time we arrive at Nayara Hotel, Spa and Gardens, and the cluster of restaurants on the main "street" are abuzz with alfresco dinner activity. At fi rst glance, Nayara's coveted three leaves are a little hard to spot. On inserting my key card into a socket on the wall, the room jumps to life like a small carnival: pot lights and wall sconces fi ll the room with brilliance and two air conditioners chirp melodiously. There is also a TV, a DVD player, a phone and ample towels and robes – in short, it resembles any luxurious hotel. On the nightstand, a card informs me: "Water is life. Only use the nec- essary," but the two indoor rain showers, outdoor shower, double vanity and Jacuzzi give me ample opportunity to squander it. (Not that I'm complaining: it all looks delightful after a day on the road.) Costa Rica's genius is that well-run eco- lodges can offer guests every luxury and still be mindful of the environment. Nayara composts all of its food scraps (or sends them to farms for pig feed), uses low-wattage LED lighting and biodegradable cleaning products, monitors water use, recycles wastewater and avoids using pesticide and fertilizer in its verdant native gardens. I revel in the opportu- nity for a truly hot shower, a good movie and some air condi- tioning and resolve to spend the following day lazing in my room, scrutinizing the steaming volcano (visible from my window) for any 24 WESTWORLD >> JUNE 2012 A waterfall on the mineral-tinted Rio Celeste ("sky blue river"); exploring the paths along the fl anks of the Arenal Volcano on horseback (bottom left). sign of eruption (the last big 'un was 1998). While there are many tours on offer involv- ing hiking and horseback riding on the volcano's fl anks, I'm still sore from rafting. So after lunch I stroll into town and deposit myself at the Eco Termales Hot Springs, one of scores of natural thermal pools in the area. I soak in the steaming water and, later, tuck in to a traditional dinner of beef with rice and refried beans before heading back to my comfortable bed. The next day I rise early and head two hours north to Rio Celeste Hideaway Hotel. En route, my driver comes to an abrupt halt and beckons me from the car. While I mar- vel at the girth of a 500-year-old Ceiba tree, he rummages among the damp leaves, emerging triumphantly with a bright-red strawberry poison dart frog. (How exactly he was able to handle such a toxic creature unharmed, I'll never know.) If in Los Angeles everyone is a budding actor, in Costa Rica everyone's a naturalist. When we arrive at the lodge – two sloths, three frogs and a dozen exotic birds later – I'm pleased to find that it feels utterly (horseback) Nik Wheeler/All Canada Photos, (waterfall) Carver Mostardi/All Canada Photos