Westworld Alberta

vendors selling fur coats and hats. Then on to the tiny, six-km-long island of Kizhi, home to two much-photographed, nail-less 18th century wooden churches with swirled domes. The Russian government has declared Kizhi an open-air museum and moved more than 80 historic wooden build- ings to the long grasses of this peaceful island. UNESCO made the museum a heritage site in 1990. The banks of the river remind me of densely wooded parts of Canada – Ontario or Quebec. The Americans onboard keep muttering "Wisconsin." Kizhi is situated on vast Lake Onega, the second biggest lake in Europe. A mist drifts across the lake after dinner. I order a glass of port and settle in to watch a video of Anna Karenina in the ship's library. Gorgeous St. Petersburg is the culmina- tion of our journey. This city arose as a result of Peter the Great's vision for an elegant, sophisticated European city at the edge of the Baltic Sea. Peter, a true giant of Russia's past (he stood almost seven feet tall) deliv- ered on his vision by recruiting hapless serfs and prisoners, thousands of whom would die during construction. With its canals and elegant late baroque architecture, St. Petersburg is often called the Venice of the North, but it was a Floren- tine, Francesco Rastrelli, who designed two of its most glorious buildings. His grandiose Winter Palace on the Neva houses the Her- mitage Art Museum. Flamboyant, bright blue Catherine Palace, 25 km southeast of the city, is home to the recently restored Amber Room, an elaborate chamber whose walls are entirely covered with amber, gold leaf and mirrors. I decide to devote my last day in Russia to the Hermitage, but soon realize that it is vast and complex, like Russia itself. After wander- ing happily among 19th-century French and Russian paintings, I give up and head off down Nevsky Prospect, the city's main street, aware that I can never do the museum jus- tice in one visit – like Russia itself. AMA MEMBERS SAVE MORE Before you go: Join AMA president Don Smitten and his wife, Diane, on a journey to experience the history and culture of Russia. The Waterways of the Czars President's Cruise runs July 4-17, 2012, from Moscow to St. Petersburg. From $6,189. 1-866-989-6594; AMATravel.ca/Cruise WESTWORLD >> NOVEMBER 2011 27

• Cover