Westworld Alberta

The City of Miami shares a similar history. It was incorporated in 1896, just months after the fi rst train's arrival. Flagler built the port, established the water and electric- ity systems, laid out streets and even established the fi rst news- paper. For all this, he refused the city's offer to rename itself in his honour. The A1A offers a charming introduc- tion to this city of 2.5 million. As Collins Avenue, it passes the beautifully preserved early to mid-20th century build- ings of the Art Deco district. From there, it heads downtown into quadrants of numbered roads that ascend in all directions from, appropriately, the intersection of Flagler Street and Miami Avenue. Good Eats: Overlooking Miami River, Casa- blanca (casablancaseafood.com; 305-371- 4107) serves seafood with a Latin-American flavour. From the patio, watch fishermen call it a day at sunset. Good Sleeps: The Miami River Inn (miami riverinn.com; 800-468-3589) once charged 50 cents a night for a room. This charming spot, just outside downtown, is still a steal, starting at US$89 a night. FL ORID A GULF OF MEXIC O CU B A LEG TWO:Miami to Islamorada (130 km) From Miami, leave the A1A for the US1 south to Homestead. Just beyond the latter, the highway rises above serene and grassy LEG THREE: Islamorada to Key West (130 km) Department of Transporta- tion as the Florida Keys Scenic Highway, which traverses the islands via former railroad bridges to Key West. Dense stands of tropical hardwood (and a fair amount of roadside retail) soon give way to patches of mangrove, a scrubby tree that rises from the water on spidery roots. Henry Flagler would have steamed past the same forests in Janu- ary 1912. But the 1935 Labour Day hurricane obliterated (here) One of many art galleries on Duval St., Key West; (left) diners soaking up an ocean sunset in Key West's historic district. much of the track in this area, and the line was never rebuilt. Instead, the right-of-way and remaining bridges were sold to the State of Florida for a highway. A coral limestone memorial at mile marker 81.5 in Islamorada depicts, in art deco relief, that powerful storm – one of the worst to ever hit the U.S. Today, Islamor- ada, a village of fi ve islands, is oth- erwise revered for sport fishing along North America's only coral reef, just offshore in the crystal- blue waters of the Florida Straits. marshlands. After Lake Surprise, which Flagler's engineers crossed via a bed of clay dredged from the Atlantic, you've entered the Keys, a coral archipelago that curves southwest from just off Miami's south shore to the open water 145 km north of Havana, Cuba. On Key Largo, largest of the Keys, begins a stretch recognized by the U.S. (left to right) Eric James, Ann Rayworth/All Canada Photos Good Eats: Open since 1947, the Green Turtle Inn (305-664-2006; greenturtlekeys.com) is a casual but classy roadside diner offering uniquely Keys fare, including turtle chowder. Good Sleeps: With its beach and inviting pool, the Islander Resort (800-753-6002; islanderfl oridakeys.com) epitomizes laid-back Keys culture. Roughly 50 km south, Seven Mile Bridge spans open water – the Atlantic at left, the Gulf of Mexico, right – between Knight's and Little Duck Keys, and runs alongside Flagler's original viaduct, a chain of brick arches that bolstered the railroad's reputa- tion as the eighth wonder of the world. Turn left at mile marker 37 into Bahia Honda State Park. Here, Flagler's original trestle bridge, no longer in use, crosses the deepest waters encountered by the builders – sometimes 10 metres. After a dip in warm waters, continue southward for Key West, hopping bridge-by-bridge over more than a dozen islands in less than 50 km. A century ago, 10,000 citizens and dignitaries greeted Flagler's train with fanfare. A celebratory atmosphere still defines the island, particularly touristy Front and Duval streets. As you arrive, veer right onto North Roosevelt Boulevard and right again onto Palm Avenue, which turns into Eaton Street. Make a left at Whitehead Street, where the US1 ends (Mile 0), at Fleming Street. Carry on to South Street and turn left, then go right at Reynolds Street to the end of the road and the Mediterranean- style Casa Marina, the Key's largest resort and the last Flagler hotel built in Florida. In the end, Flagler's railroad extension never turned a signifi cant profi t. "I would have been a rich man," he once said, "if it hadn't been for Florida." The quip raises a question: what might Florida have been without him? AMA MEMBERS SAVE MORE Before you go: Stay at The Breakers Palm Beach, Flagler's iconic resort. From $186 per person, per night, including taxes. 1-866-667-4777; AMATravel.ca While you're there: In Palm Beach, save 10 per cent on food and non-alcoholic beverages at Charley's Crab. In Miami, buy one ticket and get one free at the Gold Coast Railroad Museum (not valid for special events). WESTWORLD >> NOVEMBER 2011 19

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