Westworld Alberta

the stage in silver-sequined costumes, tim- ing their clockwork kicks to "Let Christmas Shine." With cheers echoing through the plaza, Mayor Bloomberg hits a button and in a fl ash, the 23-metre-tall Norway spruce is ablaze. The tree is so huge and so bright that the 250-kilogram Swarovski crystal star on top seems tiny by comparison. Along with 1 millions of other suburban kids in North America, I grew up thrilling to the magic words "live from New York" before a TV Christmas special. I sighed over the holi- day scenes in New York-set movies such as When Harry Met Sally. And when I moved to the city 10 years ago, I found that come December, New York thrummed with excitement just as I'd imagined. But despite all my years living here, and working as a New York-based travel writer and editor, I'd ignored the call, let- ting offi ce parties, crowds and procrastination keep me from holi- day indulgences. So, to make up for lost time, I decide on a full immersion in New York yuletide traditions, from kitschy to classic. Taking in the Rockefeller Center tree lighting As any New Yorker knows, the city's holiday season offi cially begins with the lighting of the iconic Rockefeller Center Christmas tree in late November. Every year since 1933, workers have raised an enormous spruce in the heart of this sprawling art deco- style offi ce complex in Manhattan. Eight kilometres of multi-coloured lights wind around the tree, waiting to be illuminated by the mayor during a ceremony broadcast across the country. And every year, like many locals, I've given the entire area a wide berth, impatient with the tens of thousands of gawkers clogging the streets. This time, I'll be in the thick of it. Luckily, I have a friend behind the scenes – John, who is one of the light-display technicians. He gives me this advice: come at least three hours early, layer your sweaters and stake out a spot with a good view of the video screens on either side of the tree. There are hours of lead-up performances, featuring celebrity guests and singers. Kylie Minogue warbles "Santa Baby" in an elfi n outfi t. Josh Groban wiggles his eyebrows through "The Christmas Song" (a.k.a. "Chestnuts Roast- ing on an Open Fire.") Then the Rockettes take Threading through the crowd, I spot John calling commands into his scarf-swaddled headset. I ask him whether he still feels the thrill despite his years behind the scenes. He grins and says, "I do, every time. This kicks off my Christmas." best department-store windows 2 (opposite page) Angel decorations at Rockefeller Center; (left) the iconic Rockefeller Center Christmas tree alight; (right) one of Bergdorf Goodman's elaborate holiday window displays. (opposite page) Gail Mooney/Masterfile, (above) Image State/All Canada Photos, (right) Tourism New York Around American Thanksgiving, the last Thursday in November, Manhattan's depart- ment stores debut their holiday window dis- plays. The main corridor runs up Fifth Avenue from 50th Street (Saks Fifth Avenue) to 58th Street (Bergdorf Goodman). Bundled- up shoppers pile 10 deep in front of the win- dows, craning for a look at the vignettes. I quickly learn that the best time to brave midtown is late afternoon, Monday through Wednesday. The crowds thin at dusk and the windows look even more radiant. The show- stopper is Bergdorf Goodman, with its five elaborate tableaux. Peeking over the shoulder- to-shoulder pack, I'm smitten by the sight of a mannequin in a white feathered ball gown, perched atop a gilded Pegasus. In another WESTWORLD >> NOVEMBER 2011 29 Sizing up the

• Cover