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where the Gaelic toast "Sláinte!" gets an evening rolling. We keep hearing about – and happily drop in on – O'Donoghue's pub. There, clusters of musicians at either end of the rambling bar keep toes tapping. The eclectic groups are almost always led by someone playing an accordion, and we discover the instrument's ability to evoke a flurry of emotions. We don't know every song, yet each feels familiar. (left) Rebecca Harte welcomes guests to the Farmgate Café in County Cork; (opposite) the National Craft Gallery, housed in Kilkenny Castle's old stables and coach houses. As we move on to Kilkenny, southwest, we find that trading a big city for a small one isn't the jarring experience it can be in other countries. We encounter a penchant for kindness throughout Ireland, rural and urban. Walking along the narrow, endearing streets of this lovely city with a village sensibility, its namesake castle frequently comes into view. From a bridge crossing the brooding River Nore, its tower caresses the sky. A tour reveals its storied history, including its link to Ireland's powerful Butler family. The surname Butler pops up on everything from street signs to pub names. In Kilkenny, the Butler House – a hotel that looks ready-made for the successor to 24 W es t wo r ld >> Downton Abbey – is graced by rest-inducing gardens in which a fountain's murmuring is like an afternoon serenade. Beside this urban oasis sits the light-filled Kilkenny Design Centre. Ambling through it assuages some of the wistfulness we've felt in only driving through the jewel-like villages that dot Ireland's southern landscape. Here, you can see, touch and buy the ceramics, clothing, jewellery and other wares of craftspeople from all over the countryside. When dining at the historic Kyteler's Inn (dating from 1324), you might think, as we did, you'd be under-dressed in jeans. But the cavernous place turns out to be more neighbourhood saloon than uptown eatery. In its unpretentious setting, we especially enjoy the fresh cheeses (as one resident deadpans, "We have more cows than people in Ireland"). And this is the place for savoury bangers and mash. Kilkenny's quaintness is a good primer for a stay at Glenlohane in County Cork. Run by Desmond and Melanie Sharp Bolster and in Desmond's family since the 1700s, this Georgian country house is reached via an unpaved road. Guests are invited to make themselves completely at home in its cozy rooms and, if desired, are welcome to assist in chores such as feeding the horses. Hunting and fishing can also be arranged. Days begin may 2013 T p22-27_Ireland.indd 24 13-04-12 1:06 PM

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