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road trip None for the Road: If you're winetasting, you shouldn't be driving. Pick a designated driver each day and reward that person with free dinner. If you're cycling from winery to winery, use the connoisseur-approved "swirl, sniff, sip, swish and spit" method of tasting (in other words, don't swallow the alcohol). (this page, top to bottom) Life moves at a slow pace in Sonoma wine country – so cycling is the perfect mode of transport for touring; Sonoma Valley vineyards; (opposite) Glen Ellen Star chef Ari Weiswasser's wood-roasted asparagus and bread salad; L.J. Williamson in the vineyard behind HopeMerrill House, Geyserville. 18 W e s t w o r l d p18-19_Road_Trip.indd 18 >> Sonoma by Bike Pedal your way through wine country by L.J. Williamson The Sonoma Valley embodies the Call of the Wild author Jack London JAUNT to make Glen Ellen (pop. 784) his idealized image of California life: Oakland to Santa home in 1909. In the centre of town, the people are mellow, the sun is shining and the wine is flowing. Rosa, CA, and back. make a stop at Jack London Village, a duration cluster of historic buildings that Unlike the caffeine-driven city life 3 days house gourmet shops and a host of of San Francisco and Los Angeles, lunch options. The town doesn't in wine country, they take it slow – prime time All year. Fall is the have its own bike rental shop, but which is why cycling is such a busy season. nearby Sonoma's Good Time Touring natural here. Plus, the region's wide (goodtimetouring.com; 888-525-0453) variety of microclimates and soil types means that, unlike other wine regions offers free pickup and delivery of rental bikes. that specialize in one or two varietals, almost While you wait, dine or taste across the street at any type of grape can be grown here with Eric Ross Winery (ericross.com; 707-939-8525), spectacular results. Cabernet Sauvignon thrives which is known for its kitschy decor and wines in the warmer inland areas, Pinot Noirs and made from unusual Spanish varietals, such as Chardonnay on the cooler coast. Drive this Tempranillo and Albarino. Once outfitted, hop on your bike and make route from town to town, parking your car the roughly three-kilometre ride up to Benziger and cycling in for a closer look – and taste. Winery (benziger.com; 707-935-3000), a family operation that uses biodynamic growing LEG ONE: Oakland to methods to produce its Cabernet Sauvignons, Geyserville via Glen Ellen Starting in Oakland affords a view of the Pinot Noirs, Sauvignon Blancs, Chardonnays, dramatic difference between the urban Bay Merlots and Syrahs. The 93-point-rated Area and the placid Sonoma Valley. Drive north Bordeaux blend, 2008 Tribute, is a don't-miss. on Hwy. 880 and Interstate 80, whisking past Benziger also offers tractor- pulled tram tours of industrial landscapes, until the trafficky Inter- its vineyards and gardens. state gives way to narrow, intimate Hwy. 37 and Good Eats: The chef at Glen Ellen Star (glenellen star.com; 707-343-1384) has a resumé that golden, spreading hillsides come into view. It was this vista that led famously wanderlusting includes a stint at nearby three-Michelin-star f e b r u a ry 2 0 1 3 (this page, top to bottom) Robert Janover/Sonoma County Tourism, Getty Images 13-01-23 6:05 PM

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